Shoe



L. w. ROLLINS snon 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Feb. 1, 1938 Mm 717/; at M (sf/4M.

Dec. 19, 1939.. 1.. w. ROLLINS' 1 2,183,697

' SHOE FilQ d FQb. 1, 1938 I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig.6.

Patented Dec. 19, 1939 UNITED STATES 2,183,697 PATENT OFFICE SHOE Leroy W. Rollins, Medford, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application February 1, 1938, Serial No. 188,102

3 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and is illustrated herein by way of example with reference to the manufacture of welt shoes. There is a growing demand in the shoe indus- 7 5 try for shoes having so-called nailless heel seats,

that is, shoes having no nails, tacks or metallic fastenings of any kind in their rear portions.

This construction is advantageous because it lightens the shoe, eliminates deterioration of the 10 shoe materials through rusting of metallic fastening means, and eliminates the danger of the points of heel attaching nails or lasting tacks working into positions inside the shoe to cause discomfort to the wearer. Moreover, it also prevents the formation of unsightly bumps or bunches on the inner surface of the insole during wear of the shoe as frequently occurs in shoes having their uppers lasted by tacks clinched against the insoles or having their heel members [attached by nails driven from either the inside or the outside of the shoe bottom.

Objects of the present invention are to provide improved shoes having nailless heel seat portions.

r The invention provides, as an improved article of manufacture, a shoe having no nails or other metal fastenings in its rear or heel portion. As illustrated, the upper materials at the heel seat portion of the shoe are secured in overlasted relation to the insole by attachment to a rib around the heel portion of the insole, thisrib, as shown, being continuous around the entire marginal portion of the insole. The shoe is provided forwardly of the heel breast line with a 5 welt which is omitted at the heel seat portion and the upper at said heel seat portion is permanently secured to the rib by a continuation of the inseam ,or welt attaching stitches. The outsole, including its heel seat portion, is attached to the shoe by cement and the heel, comprising a usual heel base and a top lift, may be attached without the aid of metallic fastenings by cement and non-metallic fastenings which do not penetrate the insole.

45 With the above and other objects and features in view, the invention will now be described-in connection with the accompanying drawings and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

' Fig. 1 is a plan view of aninsole used in practising the present invention;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged transverse sectional view through the forepart of the insole taken on the line II II of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a shoe upper secured in lasted relationto the insole;

Fig. 4 is a plan View of the shoe bottom after a welt has been attached forwardly of the heel breast line and the inseam carried round the heel 60 seat;

Fig. 5' is a View of the heel end of the shoe of Fig. 4 with the upper portion sectioned on the line V-Vof that figure showing the shoe after the inseam is sewn, the right-hand side of the shoe bottom having been trimmed; (1.5

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 showing the outsole ready to be applied;

Fig. 7 is a transverse sectionalview through the forepart of the shoe after the outsole has been attached;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 5 illustrating, in section, one way of attaching a heel base and top lift to the shoe; and

Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are views similar to Fig. 8, illustrating variations'in the manner of attach-l ing the heel base and top lift.

In making shoes having nailless rear portions, as illustrated herein, an insole of leather or similar material is channeled entirely around its marginal portion, as indicated in Figs'l and 2, to provide-channel flaps which are secured together in the usual manner to form a continuous upstanding rib 22 which extends around the entire margin of the insole including its rear or heel portion. As is customary in an insole of this type, which is commonly referred to as an Economy insole, the area of its outer surface which lies inside the continuous rib 22 may be reinforced with fabric material 24 which also covers the inner side of the rib. Since the rib 7 b extends around the rear or heel portion of the insole, the fabric reinforcement 24 preferably covers that portion of the insole and rib also, as shown in Figs. 1 and 3.

The insole 20 is assembled on a last 26 (Fig. 3) with an upper28 comprising an outer layer, lining, counter and doubler, and the upper is pulled over in the usual manner. The side portions of the upper materials extending between the heel breast line and the tip line of the shoe are worked over the opposite margins or feather portions of the insole and are secured in lasted relation thereto by staples 30 which fasten the upper to the rib 22, the staples, as shown in Fig. 3, being clinched against the inner side of therib. The toe and heel end portions of the upper are worked respectivelyover the toe and heel ends of the insole and are secured in overlasted relation thereto with their inner margins deflected into an upstanding position through engagement with the rib 22 by binding wires 32 and 34' which are fastened in position in the usual manner by anchor tacks 36, as illustrated in Fig. 3. The lasting operation at the toe and the heel seat por tions of the shoe bottom is preferably performed with the aid of the well-known bedlasting machine, although it may, of course, be performed 'withnther'machines or by hand, if desired.

After the shoe has been lasted as described above, the usual inseaming operation is per- 'an outsole.

formed to secure the upper 28 permanently to the rib 22 and, as is customary in welt shoes, to attach a welt 38 to the upper. In accordance with the present invention, however, the inseaming and welting operation is modified to the .extent that, while the welt 38 is stitched to "the upper materials and rib forwardly of the heel breast line in the usual manner by inseam stitches 40, as shown in Fig. 4, these same inseam stitches 40 are continued around the heel seat portion of the shoe bottom and are utilized also to secure the upper materials 28 at such portion directly to the lasting rib 22. In other words, the welt 38 is stitched to the upper and.

rib by the inseam 48 around the shoe forwardly of the heel breast line at which point the welt is omitted as usual but the inseam stitches 48 are continued to secure the upper materials 28, in-

cluding the outer layer, counter and lining, directly to the rib 22 around the heel seat portion of the shoe. The method of performing this inseaming operation'may be varied as circumstances require but it is believed preferable to start attaching the welt '38 at one side of the shoe bottom, as usual, and to continue around the forepart and back to the heel breast line at the other side of the shoe. At this point the welt 38 may be cut and pulled out of the welt guide of the welting machine andthe remainder of the shoe bottom,'that is, the heel seat portion of the shoe, maybe inseam stitched without the welt. 'If desired, the heel seat portion of the shoe could beinseam stitched first 'and'th'e welt then stitched to the upper materials and rib throughout the shank 'an'd forepart of the shoe, the particular order of the steps being of no consequence.

The shoe is now subjected tothe usual inseam thimmingoperation which removes the up- :etanding surplus material of the upper and rib entirely around theshoe-bottom. As is customary, the inseam trimming cut at the-side :portions of the shoe passes as close as practicable to the inseam '40 at such portions and thereby removes most or many "of the staples '30. The trimming cut at the heel-seat portion of the shoe bottom should alsobe located as close as possible 'to the inseam "48 without actually cutting the stitches. Fig. shows the right-hand side of the heel seat portion of the shoe bottom trimmed in the desired manner.

Theshoe bottom is next prepared for receiving The inseam and remainder of the trimmed materialat the heel'seat portion of the 'shoe are leveled as fiat as possible against the shoe bottom by a pounding or leveling "operation,

and the overlasted marginal portions of 'the upper-are roughened in'the usual -manner. -Cement 43 'suchjfor example, as pyroxylin cement .is applied thereto and allowed to dry. 'An'outsole -42 is prepared for cement attachment 'to the shoe bottom by roughening the marginal (portion of its inner surface'entirely around the periphery of the outsole, including its heel seat ,portion, applying pyroxylin cement 63 to the roughened area, and permitting the 'cement to dry. At the forepart of the shoe the welt 38 is likewise roughened on its outer or exposed 'surface and pyroxylin cement t3 isapplied and allowed to dry. Filler material M (Figs. Band '7), such as ground cork and a suitable binder, is applied to the forepart of the shoe -to-f1ll the space between the remaining upstanding :portions of the rib 22 and also, if necessary, *between the flattened portions of the rib at :the

rear or heel seat portion of the shoe. As shown in Fig. 6, the heel seat portion of the shoe bottom will not require as much filler material as the forepart because the material at the inseam has been flattened down considerably by the leveling operation. In addition to the filler material a usual shank piece or stiffener (not shown) may be located between the ribs at the shank portion offlthe shoe in the customary manner.

The cement 43 on the outsole and also on the welt and on the upper at the heel seat portion of the shoe is next activated by a solvent and the outsole is positioned on the shoe bottom and cement attached thereto in a sole attaching press of any usual construction'in which the shoe may be maintained under pressure until the cement 43 has set. The outsole is thus permanently attached to the shoe bottom over its entire area, including its heel seat portion, by pyroxylin cement which sticks the outsole to the welt 38 and adjacent portions of the upper and rib at the forepart and shank portions of the shoe, and to the overlasted portion of the upper at the heel seat portion of the shoe.

The next operation in making my improved shoe having a nailless heel seat, is to attach a heel consisting of a heel base and a top lift, which isusually of rubber, to the shoe bottom. This may be accomplished in several ways which differ slightly from each other but all of which produce a strong and permanent heel construction in which there is-n'o metal. As illustrated in Fig. 8, a heel base 46 is provided composed of aplurality of leather layers or lifts and having an inwardly tapered rand 41 secured to the marginal portion of one of its surfaces whereby that surface or, if desired, the opposite surface is rendered concave or cupped to fit the heel seat of theshoe. As herein illustrated, the rand 4T is attached to the outer surface of the laminated heel base, that is, the surface opposite the cupped surface which is to engage the outsole, and this sole engaging surface is formed from the grain side of the inner lift so that a grain surface will outsole. The placing of these two grain surfaces in direct contact with each other results in a strong and permanent cement bond between the heel base and the outsole.

The heel'base 46 may be'first applied to the heel seat portion of the outsole 42 and a top lift or heel dB-of rubber or rubber composition may be thereafter attached to the heel base, this rubber heel preferably being of the construction shown in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,741,037

granted December 24, 1929 on an application filed in the name of Clifford Roberts and having a three ply laminated core 69. -In carrying out this operation the heel seat portion of the outer surfaceof the outsole is roughened, preferably over its entire area, to remove the grain therefrom and cement such, for example, as pyroxylin cement 5!), is applied to the roughened surface and allowed to dry. The inner or grain surface of the heel base 46 is treated in a'similar manner and the cement on one or both of these surfaces is-activated by a solvent after which the base is stuck to the heel seat portion of the outsole under pressure. In order to insure that the several sections or lifts forming the heel base will not separate or check during the wear of the shoe and also, in the case 'of 'a relatively slow setting cement, to insure-the heel'base will become firm- 1y attached to the outsole without the necessity .45 contact directly with the grain surface of the of holding the shoe under pressure while the cement is setting, fastenings 52 are now driven through the base and outsole, these fastenings being of the character disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,729,169, granted September 24, 1929, on an application filed in the name of Fred N. La Chapelle. As disclosed in that patent, the fastenings 52 are composed of felted fibrous material which is twisted during its manufacture and is sized with appropriate stiffening material to form a so-called fiber fastening or peg. As shown in Fig. 8, the fiber fastenings '52 securing the heel base 46 to the outsole, pass through the base and outsole but do not penetrate the insole 20 and, accordingly, no fastening means will appear inside the shoe at its heel seat portion. The rubber heel or top lift 48 may now be coated on its inner or attaching surface with a cement 54 suitable for securing rubber to leather such, for example, as polymerized chloroprene cement of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States-No. 2,061,296 on an application filed in the name of W. H. Wedger and known to the trade as Supergrip cement although a cement having a rubber base could be used if desired. The top lift may now be stuck to the heel base under pressure in any usual or convenient manner.

Instead of first attaching the heel base 46 to the outsole 52, as described above, the proper surfaces of the heel base and outsole may both be roughed and coated with pyroxylin or polymerized chloroprene cement and the adjoining surfaces of the heel base and rubber top lift 48 may be coated with chloroprene or a rubber cement. The heel members may then be attached to the outsole simultaneously in a single operation in the manner illustrated in Fig. 9. When the heel members are attached in this manner, the fiber pegs or fastenings for reinforcing the attachment and, if necessary, for holding the heel base against the outsole while the cement is setting, must be driven through the rubber top lift as well as through the heel base and outsole. Accordingly, pegs 56, which are long enough to extend through these three members, are. utilized, these pegs, however, not penetrating the insole and being sunk into the rubber top lift untiltheir top ends are clinched or upset against the laminated core 49'.

If desired, the rubber top lift 48 and the heel base 46 may be first stuck together with chloroprene or a rubber cement 5 1, in the manner illustrated in Fig. 10, and short fiber fastenings or pegs 58 may be driven through these two members to reinforce their attachment to each other. The heel seat portion of the outsole 42 may then be coated with cement 50, as described above, and the complete heel unit may be cement attached to the outsole by utilizing additional fiber fastenings 60 which are of sufficient length to extend through the heel unit and the outsole but not to penetrate the insole, these fastenings 60 being indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 10.

Another method of attaching the heel and heel base to the outsole is illustrated in Fig. 11. In accordance with this method theoutsole 42 may be prepared for cement attachment to the shoe bottom, including the heel seat portion of the chloroprene or a rubber cement 54 in the manner already explained.- The heel base, top lift and outsole may then be cement attached together to form a complete sole and heel unit, fiber pegs or fastenings 62 being utilized, as before, to reinforce the attachment and prevent the sections or plies forming the heel base from separating or checking during wear of the shoe. After the sole and heel unit have been prepared in the manner described, the cement on the inner surface of the outsole, on the welt and on the up per at the heel seat portion of the shoe bottom may be activated and the complete sole and heel unit may be cement attached to the shoe bottom in a single operation.

It is to be understood that the present invention is not intended to be limited to shoes of the type herein disclosed, but may be carried out in connection with other types of shoes in which the outsoles are, or may be, attached throughout their entire areas by cement, and in which the stood that, although the nature of the adhesives referred to herein are considered preferable in the construction of a shoe of the type illustrated, other types of cement could obviously be used.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a shoe, an insole having a rib extending around its entire margin including its heel portion, an upper, and a welt extending around the forepart and shank portions, of the shoe and terminating at the heel breast line thereof, said upper and welt being secured to said rib by stitches forwardly of said heel breast line, and said stitches continuing around the heel portion of the shoe and securing the upper only to said rib around said heel portion.

2. In a shoe, an insole having a rib around its entire marginal portion including its heel portion, an upper, a welt extending around the forepart and shank portions of the shoe but terminating at the heel breast line thereof, said upper and welt being secured to the insole rib by stitches around the forepart and shank portions of the shoe and said upper alone being secured to said rib around the heel portion of the shoe by a continuation of said stitches, and an outsole attached by cement to the welt forwardly of the heel breast line and attached by cement to the upper alone rearwardly of said heel breast line.

3. A shoe comprising an insole having a lasting rib extending around its entire margin includ-, ing its heel portion, an upper, a welt extending around the forepart and shank portions of the shoe but terminating at its heel breast line, said upper and Welt. being secured to the insole rib by stitches forwardly of said heel breast line, said stitches continuing around the heel portion of the shoe and securing the upper only to the rib at said heel portion, an outsole attached to the welt forwardly of the heel breast line and secured to the upper alone rearwardly of said heel breast line, and a heel including a base and a top lift secured to the outsole by non-metallic fastening means, thereby providing a nailless heel seat portion on the shoe.

LEROY W. ROLLINS. 

